Thursday, August 29, 2013

First Day of School

The boys started school on Monday at The Island Academy. They were super excited, and Amy and I were also excited, but a bit more anxious than I suspect the boys may have been--would they like it? Would they make friends? Would their teachers be compatible with their learning styles?

The weather had improved considerably over the course of the day on Sunday, and Monday morning was bright, warm and beautiful. We rode our bikes to school and started meeting other parents, kids and teachers. The boys' teachers had prepared cubbies, name tags, and various other materials with their names on them, and I think this helped reinforce the very welcoming atmosphere. After the students lined up in front of the three school buildings, one of the older students raised the Belize flag, everyone shook Teacher Claire's hand (she is the teacher 'on duty' this week) and then assembled under the palapa for the welcome back to school assembly. The palapa is where assemblies are held, lunch is eaten, and any other activity that involves all students takes place. The setting is pretty stunning, and I have to admit I feel somewhat jealous of my children!

The boys' teachers are really wonderful, and the school community seems pretty amazing. We're still getting to know people, but it feels like this was a good choice.
The boys under the Belize flag, first day of school

Lining up for the flag raising

All school assembly under the palapa

The playground

First Weekend in San Pedro

We awoke early Saturday morning to strong winds, driving rain, and intense thunder and lightning. It poured rain for several hours, leaving our street flooded, and the lake rose significantly. We spent the time unpacking and organizing inside. When it finally began to clear up, we headed into town to begin our quest for key items:
  • food
  • bicycles for everyone in the family
  • school uniforms for the boys
  • internet access (modem, etc)
  • cell phones
  • bunk beds
Heavy rain on the lake

Flooded street!

Ramon's Village, a very cool resort that shockingly burned to the ground 4 days after I took this picture

One of the cobblestone streets in San Pedro

The Central Park

Mango smoothies! At Elvi's Kitchen.

Coconut tree in our backyard

One of several very large green iguanas that live in the backyard

On the pier at Banyan Bay, just down the street from our house

The mysterious sea creature Liam found that turned out to be an immature Portugese Man of War

Loki in the Caribbean

 There are bicycles everywhere in San Pedro, and just about everyone rides them--little kids, young adults, old folks, entire families, you name it, they're on bikes. Which is why it was very surprising to us that it was so difficult to find 20" kid bikes for the boys. On San Pedro, most of the 'hardware stores' are actually 'everything stores' and they sell everything from hardware (as you would expect) to major appliances, and of course, they sell bicycles. we started with S.P. Hardware, the one closest to our house. They had some nice beach cruisers, but none that fit our boys. We walked on into town. We stopped at another hardware store, they did not have any in stock but were expecting a shipment that afternoon. We asked at two different bicycle rental places if they had any old kid rentals they were selling, but no dice. Each one recommended different stores, and we stopped at all of them--A & R, Loudes Hardware, Wings, but again, no dice.
Our family transportation

Concoction time!

We had ordered all of the boys uniform shirts via email from the States but were not able to close the loop about how to pick them up before the first day of school. As we headed north, we walked past the boys school, and one of the teachers was sitting on the porch of a house across the street from the school (teacher housing maybe?). We talked with her for awhile, and Amy asked about the uniforms. She said we needed to find Elsa Paz, and she might be found in a yellow building in the center of town (sidenote:  there are no street addresses in San Pedro--or Belize in general--and very few street names. Streets are called 'Front' 'Middle' 'Back' etc, and you find places mostly by description and landmarks. For example, someome might say, "it's the purple building just down from the Dolphin Supermarket"). We picked up a Belize-compatible cell phone for Amy at Cellular World, then nearing the center of town we we came across a new yellow four story building, which is also the new home for the San  pedro post office. There was a friendly looking lady walking a small dog in the courtyard of the building, so I hazarded to ask her "Do you know Elsa Paz?" She smiled and raised her hand. We found her!

In addtion to her embroidery business, Elsa also runs the only pet shop in Belize--from the same storefront! This happens a lot in Belize, we frequently encounter the most bizarre combinations of commercial activity. the boys enjoyed looking at all of the fish, turtles, and birds on display while we settled the bill. Elsa also explained that she and her three sisters were raised on the property, and they had the new building designed and constrcuted and are looking for tenants. She said we'd get a 10% commission if we brought her a buyer. :) Before leaving we asked her for a recommendation for lunch. Her sister Elvi has a restaurant right down the street, so of course we went there. It was amazing! Very nice Caribbean style food served in a sand-floor dining room decorated with local artwork and a Soca soundtrack. We also met a local reggae musician named Tyrell who performs under the name 'Man at Work'. He showed us a video on his phone, and it sounded pretty good. We might try to catch a live performance sometime soon.

Back to the hunt for bikes. Amy started searching for bunk beds, and the boys and I continued looking for bikes. Just a few blocks down Middle Street is Joe's Bike Rentals, where we rented bikes when we visited back in April. He too did not have any kid bikes for sale, but recommended Hamanouch's Hardware, and failing that, Castillo, just a block farther north. The folks at Hamanouch were very friendly but did not have any 20" bikes. They had a 24" that just might have worked for Liam, but it was too heavy and the geometry of the frame was just too big. So, on to Castillo's. We were getting very near to the river (the channel that separates the south and north ends of Ambergris Caye). This hardware store is by far the most modern and well stocked of all the hardware stores we visited, and to my enormous joy and relief, standing in the middle of the store was their bicycle display which included a 20" beach cruiser. Success! We bought that one for Lochlan and a blue one for Liam, which the extremely friendly and helpful staff assembled on the spot for us. The folks at Harmouch's were so friendly that I decided to buy my bike from them. Unfortunately, my credit card was declined, so I used the rest of the cash I had in hand to pay for it. Bikes in hand, we headed back towards the furniture shops, but could not find Amy.

We finally all met up near the detour, and headed back home. We still needed a bike for Amy, but since my credit card was not going to work and we had already maxed out our cash withdrawal, we decided to wait until Sunday. I headed out solo to buy groceries, and quickly ascertained that we are gonig to have to adjust our cooking and eating habits. Fruit is abundant and cheap; dairy products, cereal, and any other processed food, are insanely expensive. So, I stopped at one of the local fruit stands for mangoes, bananas, pineapple, and assorted vegetables, including a cho cho, which is new to me, and made a vegetable soup. It turned out pretty well, but I'm going to have to learn fast.

We met our neighbors in the Green and Purple houses, they are both super nice and welcoming, and offered a lot of information about the town and the island.

On Sunday, we headed to the beach at Banyan Bay to swim and play in the sand. It was still extremely windy from the tropical wave that had passed on Saturday, and the water was choppy and very cloudy with sand. The beach was nice, and the boys played in the sand while Amy and I talked with Tarik, a Pakistani/Canadian ER doc formerly with Doctors without borders who lived in San Pedro for 2 years. He and his family are extremely friendly, and he talked with Amy about the local health care scene and offered to introduce her to the doctor he worked with most closely.

Liam found a most unusual sea creature, which he brought over to show me. I touched the balloon-like structure, and thought to myself "that feels like a jellyfish, and it sure looks like a portugese man-of-war." A couple minutes later, he said his finger was burning in pain. We rode back home and I poured vinegar on his finger, which really helped.

While we were at the beach, I saw a fleet of Optimists sailing in the honking breeze and they were extremely well handled. I assumed this must be the San Pedro Sailing Club, so after treating his finger, Liam and I rode our bikes down to the resort where they were sailing. We met some girls on the beach with sailing club shirts, and they directed us to Miss Tammy at the end of the pier. She too was very friendly (notice a pattern yet?) and gave us the run down on how the club works. She also invited us to the regatta at St George's Caye this Sunday, then introduced us to Randy, the beginners' instructor, who was (guess what!) very friendly. We initially set up a sailing lesson for Liam on Friday after school, but Randy called later in the week to cancel because the club will be packing up the boats on Friday to take to the Regatta.

Arrival

After landing in Belize City, we cleared Immigration and Customs with shockingly little hassle, and booked ourselves on a Tropic Air flight to San Pedro with no reservation. Amy and I kept looking at each other in disbelief that things were going so smoothly.

While we waited for our flight to depart, it poured rain. Not the stout cold rain we Seattlites are used to, but an overwhelming, steaming deluge of water that completely consumes the landscape. It was like a 'gray out,' we could not see the buildings on the other side of the runway. My immediate thought was "well, this should be a really interesting flight."

Now that's a rain storm
The rain let up just before our flight, and we walked across the tarmac to the waiting single-engine prop plane. I explained to the boys that small planes are more susceptible to turbulence and they would likely feel it a lot more. This turned out to be true, but the boys thought it was extremely exciting.
Boarding the plane, old school
En route!
We stopped at Caye Caulker to drop off a passenger, this is the 'terminal'
It cleared up considerably after we left Caye Caulker
Ambergris Caye!

The lake behind our house. Yes, it is full of crocodiles.
This little fella chirped intermittently throughout the night. I hope he stayed busy eating mosquitoes.

Our property manager had emailed us the day before telling us to call George the taxi man for a ride to our new house, and Naomi, her assistant, to meet us there to let us in. George showed up within 15 minutes, gave us a quick tour of town, then dropped us in front of our house where Namoi was waiting. She let us into the house, explained a few things, and then we were on our own. We made it! The boys were off like a shot, exploring the yard, and found land crabs, geckos, iguanas, frogs, and a bit later, lots of bats flying over the lake. They were, to put it mildly, pretty excited.

Departure Day, and Saying Goodbye Part IV: Family

The run up to our departure day was incredibly frantic. As soon as we had the house rented, an amazing transformation came over me and Amy--we started seeing all sorts of the things around the house that needed fixing, replacing, painting, caulking, etc. Some of these projects were major (like replacing our deck), some were of medium difficulty (building a new section of fence to ensure our tenants would have complete fencing for their dogs) and many, many did not take much effort taken one at a time but additvey took quite a bit of time (finally finishing that second shelf in the bathroom, rearranging furniture, getting couch covers, fixing the downstairs phone extensions, and on and on and on).

We managed to pack all of our possessions for a year into seven suitcases, four carry-ons, plus our two laptops and the boys' backpacks. Getting the CORE GIS computer packed securely was a bit of an adventure in and of itself--my dad sent me a hardshell Pelican case (actually a Storm Case) and I bought pick-and-pluck foam designed for this particular case from Amazon. My desktop, two external hard disks, and a Vonage box fit securely in the foam. Unfortunately neither of my large monitors would fit, so I packed Amy's smaller monitor into my carryon with the leftover Pelican foam.

All of our stuff, for four people, for a year
CORE GIS, in a suitcase
Fortunately, Chris and Becky were not only understanding, but stepped up in a major, major way--Becky made dinner for all of us, shoveled hundreds of pounds of mulch into our garden beds, and offered to finish up anything we were not able to get to. Chris took the boys to their house for a sleepover--which all of the kids appreciated tremendously!--and Amy and I worked through the night. At 3:30 I was starting to hallucinate (OK, I exaggerate, but only a little) so I laid down and slept for 1.5 hours. Amy did not sleep at all, she is an amazing woman. We headed over to the Moores at 5:30, woke the boys, loaded our stuff into the Moores minivan, and Chris and Colin dropped us at the airport. We never would have made that flight without Chris and Becky's help, and we are so grateful to them.

The day before departure was pretty crazy. Fortunately our friends Thomas and Mihaela watched the boys all day, but when they brought them home it was clear we were nowhere close to being done. Our original plan was to have everything packed up, the house cleaned and cleared out, and then have a celebratory departure dinner with the Moores at Hales Ales. Alas, this did not happen. Despite our best efforts, there was simply too much to do in the available time.

We departed Seattle for San Diego, where my parents had rented a cottage at Mission Beach. I grew up in Phoenix, and my materal grandparents lived in Solana Beach (just north of San Diego) and we visited them frequently. I have many happy childhood memories of the beach, and we've continued the tradition with our boys for the past 8 years. This year, my brother, his wife Rhea, and their 18 month old son Logan joined us, as did Amy's father. The cottage is just a block from the beach, down a narrow, tree lined walkway. We spent several full days at the beach, building sand casteles, boogy boarding, reading, and just relaxing. It was really great. The cottage we rented is also just a block from the roller coaster, wave house, and arcade, and we spent a few evenings riding the coaster and playing skee ball.

Liam, cousin Logan, and Uncle Andy

Loki riding a wave on his beloved boogie board

Our newly minted 10 year old with an ENORMOUS box of Magic cards from G & G

He kept saying "I lost my legs! Have you seen them?"

Happy kid on the beach

He spent hours digging this tunnel so he could crawl through it

Many waves were ridden on this day

Rhea and the most amazing Mr. Logan

Playing Temple with Grandma

Andy, dad and Lochlan stretching a piece of Pacific giant kelp to its full length

Fancy drink night!

Lochlan hit the jackpot at the arcade

Dan, Dan and Nan, the Three Gs

The hat family

Defying gravity

Clapping cousins!
On Wednesday we traveled to La Jolla for a visit to the Birch Aquarium, which I found really impressive. Afterwards we rented snorkeling equipment to look for leopard sharks and rays in the water just off La Jolla shores. Unfortunately the water was really rough and surpisingly cold, and the rough conditions had a really negative impact on visibility. We snorkeled at the same spot last year, and the water was warmer and calmer, and we saw over 50 leopard sharks. The boys had a very tough time even getting past the breakers and were shivering after just a few minutes, so they headed in to hang out with Grandpa on the beach. Amy and I braved the conditions for another 20 minutes, but only saw two sharks each. It was worth trying, but a bit disappointing after the amazing time we had last year.
Entrance to Birch Aquarium

Some of the amazing sea creatures at the aquarium

Father and daughter about to snorkel at La Jolla cove

45 YEARS!!! Way to go Mom and Dad!

The whole crew

Our last full day was Thursday, which was consumed primarily with packing, haircuts, buying school supplies, and making other preparations for Belize. We did get in a few hours at the beach, and Grandma Stevenson treated the boys to ice cream. Andy and I had some "bro time" over a couple beers in the afternoon, and we all met up for dinner at the pizza joint around the corner from the cottage. Since the next day was my folks' 45th anniversary, Amy, Andy, Rhea and I got some flowers, cards, and a few silly gifts. We sang "happy anniversary to you" at the table, and shared the largest pizza I have ever seen.

After the frenzy of packing and preparing our house, it was delightful to have a relaxed week at the beach with my family. In addition to the all the beach time, we talked about all kinds of things, told (clean and a few dirty) jokes, played games, drank lots of beer and rum punch, and got to play for hours with Logan, the newest addition to the family. He is such a cutie and has an ebullient, musical, and curious personality. He really loved the boys, and by the end of the week was calling them "Lee" and "La" and giving them spontaneous hugs. It was really heartwarming.

We awoke at 4:00 am this morning, packed up Dan Kaplan's truck, said goodbye to my folks, and made it to the airport with time to spare. Our flight to Dallas went smoothly, we changed planes, and are currently crossing the Gulf of Mexico and will be landing in Belize City in less than an hour. I am excited, nervous, and really looking forward to exploring our new home!