Monday, January 27, 2014

The Red Shoe Box (a bedtime story)

One day in early winter a woman was walking down a crowded sidewalk in a big city. It was cold--almost, but not quite, cold enough to snow. A light drizzle with bits of sleet mixed in fell upon the gray and black-clad office workers making their way from the subway to office towers, shops, and various other places of business. In the crowd walked a woman, dressed just like everyone else, except for one difference:  she carried a bright red shoe box.



Meanwhile, a man was working inside his newsstand, selling magazines, newspapers, candy bars and sodas to the workers passing by on the sidewalk. He saw the red shoebox and made eye contact with the woman. She looked extremely worried about something, and as soon as she saw the man looking at her, she walked right up to the newsstand. The man smiled in what he hoped was a reassuring manner, and the woman placed the shoebox on the counter. She said "will you please, PLEASE take this shoebox from me?" He couldn't see the harm in it, so he said, "uh, sure...I guess...yeah..."

As soon as he put his hand on the shoebox, the woman stepped back, and smiled. She turned around and started to walk away, then stopped, and turned again to face the man. With a serious expression on her face, she said "whatever you do, you must not open the box." Then she disappeared into the crowd.

The man put the shoebox under the counter, then went back to selling his magazines and newspapers. He couldn't stop thinking about the box, and what might be inside of it. Business continued fairly briskly until about 9:30, and he really wanted to look inside the box, despite the woman's warning, but enough business was trickling in that he forced himself to wait.

At 10:30, business had nearly stopped. He looked both ways down the street, didn't see any likely customers, so he reached under the counter, took out the box, and opened the lid. Inside was a small carved wooden figurine. It had an open mouth filled with many teeth, and the body was covered with spirals of different sizes. There was nothing else in the box. He closed the lid and put the box back under the counter.

Immediately after he replaced the box a woman walked up to the counter. The man said "May I help you?"

The woman looked around inside the newsstand and said "Hello? Is there anybody there?"

The man said "Yes, I'm right here! How can I help you?"

Once again the woman said "Hello...?" Then she sighed exasperatedly and continued walking down the street.

This happened twice more, with the same result. Then a teenage boy walked up to the newsstand, looked around the street quickly, and reached inside and grabbed a candybar. The man grabbed the boy's arm to prevent him from stealing the candy bar, but his hand passed right through it!

The man stumbled backwards inside the newsstand. He was starting to feel worried. He looked at the red shoebox. He picked it up and walked out of the newsstand, approaching several people and trying to get their attention. Everyone ignored him.

Finally, he walked up to another man, and prepared to bump into him. But the other man passed right through him! Now he was feeling very, very worried.

He started to walk down the street, not sure what to do next. Where could he go to get help if no one could see him? He didn't know what to do, so he continued walking down the street.

Eventually he saw a flower cart, filled with brightly colored flowers of all shapes and sizes. The flowers made the man smile, despite his growing concern. The woman selling flowers looked at the man and smiled. He walked up to her.

"Hello!" said the man.

"Hi..." said the flower seller.

"Will you please, PLEASE take this shoebox from me?"

The woman looked at the man, looked at the red shoebox, then looked back at the man.

"Uh, yeah, sure."

He handed the box to her, then stepped backwards with a smile on his face. He was about to turn around to walk back to his newsstand, but stopped. He looked at the woman, with a serious expression on his face.

"Whatever you do, do NOT open the shoebox."

The end.

Wednesday, January 22, 2014

Groove-billed and Smooth-billed Anis

One of the many things I like about Belize is the wonderful bird life. There is tremendous species diversity, and there are also just a lot of birds, everywhere. There are pelicans, frigate birds, terns and ospreys along the beach; spoonbills, egrets, and night herons in the lagoon; and orioles, parrots, hawks and hummingbirds in the forested bits. However, there is one particular species that might not be the flashiest on the island but has been of particular interest to me since we moved here:  the smooth-billed Ani.

The predominant Ani species is the groove-billed, and it can be found from southern Texas all the way to northern South America. I have seen many of them during our trips to the mainland. The bird is slightly smaller than a great-tailed grackle, has black plumage, a long tail, dark eyes, and a large bill with several prominent grooves.

Groove-billed Ani, image courtesy of allaboutbirds.com
A picture I took of a groove-billed Ani yesterday

The smooth-billed Ani is found from the southern tip of Florida, throughout the eastern Caribbean, and in northern South America. It is larger than the groove-billed, has a larger, smooth bill with a prominent bulge on top, and has completely different vocalizations.
Smooth-billed Ani, courtesy of allaboutbirds.com
A picture I took yesterday of a smooth-billed Ani, coincidentally in the same exact pose as the picture above

The really interesting thing about these two species of Ani is they overlap in only a handful of places in Central America, and Ambergris Caye is one of them.
Groove-billed Ani distribution map
Smooth-billed Ani distribution map. The little green blob at the southern border of Mexico on the Yucatan peninsula is Ambergris Caye.
Several weeks ago I was riding down our street and thought I saw a smooth-billed Ani flying parallel to the road, above the Mansions wall, but when I slowed down to take a closer look, it was gone. Absolutely execrable weather ensued, the holidays happened, my parents came to visit, etc.

Yesterday, I finally took the time to ride my bike inside the Mansions to look for the bird. The Mansions was intended to be a largeish (for San Pedro) gated community of luxury homes. The land was cleared, roads were built, utilities were installed, two homes were built...and then the global economy collapsed. No additional homes have been built, and the cleared land has started to return to habitat that just happens to be perfect for Anis, Grackles, flycatchers, and other birds.

When I came inside the gate, several black birds with long tails flew up from the ground to roost in nearby trees. Most of them were Grackles, but a handful were Anis. They looked like groove-billed Anis, so I observed through my binoculars and took a few photos. Scanning for more birds, I saw what looked like two large Anis that flew up into a tree. They let me get quite close, and I could see they were in fact smooth-billed Anis. Both species were IN THE SAME FIELD! This was really exciting for me, to see both species within a few yards of each other in one of the few places in Central America where they overlap.

Thursday, January 16, 2014

Geckos are Everywhere

As I may have remarked before, our house is surrounded and infused with geckos. There are literally hundreds of them. We see them all over the ceiling and walls of our back porch, hear them chirping merrily from the walls of our bedrooms, and occasionally they will fall off the ceiling and scare the bejeezus out of us when they land on the floor. For the most part, we like them, because they eat lots and lots of bugs.
A pack of geckos hanging around the porch ceiling.
However, for some reason, they've been showing up in unlikely places over the past few days. A couple of nights ago I was preparing to use the toilet when I heard a "sploosh" sound coming from the bowl. At first, I thought something had fallen out of my pockets, so I turned back around to face the toilet, lifted the seat, and saw this little guy.
At least he didn't try to sell me car insurance.
Unfortunately he couldn't get out of the bowl, and I wasn't about to use the toilet with him scrambling around in there. So I reached in to the bowl, noted with mild disgust that someone had used the toilet without flushing earlier in the day, and grabbed the gecko. His tail promptly fell of onto the floor and started squirming the zombie lizard tail dance, so I stepped over it, opened the front door, and placed the reptilian interloper gently on the outside wall of our house. I picked up the tail and just chucked it outside (he'll grow a new one soon enough).

Tonight as I was preparing to wash the dinner dishes, I was putting away last night's dishes, when I picked up a tea cup and found this little fellow.
This guys is very, very tiny, probably recently hatched, and could not climb out of this cup. We placed him in Liam's terrarium and will release him in the morning.

Wonder where they'll turn up next??

Sunday, January 12, 2014

Sailing to Mexico Rocks

This past Saturday was perfect for sailing--15-20 kts north-northeast, 82 degrees, full sun. Lochlan was out for the day at his friend Nathan's birthday party, so Amy, Liam and I headed to Caribbean Villas to rent a catamaran from Paul. We loaded a cooler, a drybag with food and towels, and our snorkel gear on to the trampoline and headed north.

Shortly after arriving in Belize, we attempted to sail to Mexico rocks, but we did not make it. The boys were getting cold and the water was pretty choppy. For that outing, we tied up to a buoy near the reef, and the snorkeling was average.

However, on Saturday, we definitely made it to the right spot (we even sailed a bit past Mexico Rocks so we could see X'tan Ha, where Lochlan was enjoying the birthday party). Mexico Rocks is generally done as a half day tour, one in the morning and one in the afternoon, and our timing must have been pretty good because there was only one other boat there.

After tying off to one of the numerous buoys, we headed toward the rocks. Mexico Rocks is a bit different than other sections of the reef, because it is composed of many discrete chunks of coral in a matrix of bare sand and sea grass. The coral here is in even better shape than the reef right off San Pedro, and the diversity of fish is much higher.

The highlight of the trip came when Liam spotted an octopus under an overhang on one of the rocks. The animal was so well camouflaged Amy had to swim down and point before I could see it! The octopus was definitely not camera shy, and allowed us to take many still shots and a fair bit of video:



Here are some photos of the coral and fish we saw. In addition to the octopus, we really enjoyed seeing several Spanish  hogfish and a rock beauty, two fish species we had not seen before this trip.

On our way north

A giant anemone

More of the beautiful corals on the reef

Not sure exactly what this, some species of sea rod, I believe

Common sea fan and more sea rods

The octopus!

Another view of the octopus

Rock beauty

Spanish hogfish

Monday, January 6, 2014

Swimming with Sharks

After our time in Guatemala and the Cayo District, we came back to the island for some beach time. We took several walks along the beach and spent a few afternoons lazing in hammocks, reading books, and downing a few cold ones. It was very relaxing.

However, my parents wanted to see the reef, and we wanted to show it to them! My mom wasn't too keen on snorkeling, so we booked a tour on a glass-bottomed boat and headed out to Hol Chan Marine Reserve and Shark Ray Alley. The boat had a long, clear glass bottom, and it was really cool to be able see the bottom for the entire trip out to the reef.

When we reached Shark Ray Alley, it didn't take long for the horse-eyed jacks to arrive, followed very shortly thereafter by the first nurse sharks, and then the southern and rough-tail stingrays. Although I have mixed feelings about the feeding of sharks and rays, I think it is likely a net benefit, because for the tour operators it makes a very clear connection between healthy, living sharks and their income. For the tourist, I think it is also a net benefit, because it provides a (mostly) safe way to get very, very close to these magnificent animals.

Earlier that morning Amy was called in to assist with a birth at the clinic where she volunteers. The birth went very smoothly for the mother and she gave birth to a healthy baby girl. While Amy was at the clinic, several people came in with severe reactions to jellyfish stings, which they received at Shark Ray Alley and Hol Chan.

Needless to say, this gave us all pause, but we decided to go for it anyway. I saw many, many jellyfish in the water, but they were fairly small, and not the Portuguese Man o' War that people thought they had run into. None of us got stung, but one of the other children on the dive was pretty freaked out by the prospect, and I think this was a bit contagious because after a few minutes in the water with the sharks Liam and Lochlan both got back on the boat. But while they were in the water, they seemed to have a great time swimming with the sharks and rays.
On our way out to the reef

The first sharks appear

In the water--with the sharks! (These are all harmless nurse sharks)

Blue tang


Horse eyed jack

That's a lot of sharks!

Southern stingray
Me and Dad

Amy and Mom take a selfie
At our next stop, Hol Chan, we swam out to a fairly deep passage through the reef, and saw lots of amazing fish. My favorite encounter was with a spotted eagle ray, which cruised around about 15-20 feet below us for several minutes before heading out past the reef. We also saw a very large green moray, and two sea turtles (I believe they were both green sea turtles).
Blue-striped grunts

Parrotfish

Green sea turtle

Spotted eagle ray
A fish's eye view from under the boat

After the snorkelers rejoined the boat, we passed over the reef and my folks got to see some of the coral and fish up close. Unfortunately the boat did not spend as much time as I expected over the reef, but I think it was enough for my parents to get a sense of the reef and just enjoy some time out on the water.

In addition to our beach lounging and reef excursion, my parents got to see Liam sail in an Opti (and we all learned that he was promoted from the beginner group to the B group!), eat at a genuine Salvadoran Pupuseria, and pay a visit to Palapa Bar and add some saguaros and mountains to the graffiti.
Pupusa time!
Mom even got help prepare the pupusas
Some of the colorful furniture we saw during our beach walk
The ladies enjoying a beverage on the upper deck of Palapa Bar

The lads enjoying a cold cerveza
Last day with Grandma and Grandpa!
The two weeks my parents were here absolutely flew by. We all enjoyed their company tremendously and we were sorry to see them go. But they are on to new adventures of their own--they just bought a new house on a golf course! I think they had a good time here in Belize, but they were also looking forward to returning to Phoenix and getting settled in the new house.

Sunday, January 5, 2014

Exploring Barton Creek Cave and Mountain Pine Ridge

After our day trip to Tikal and Flores, we spent a mellow day in San Ignacio, exploring the town and shopping for souvenirs and presents. My favorite part of the day was the farmer's market, which is by far the largest I've seen in Belize. While Amy, the boys, and my folks explored the market, I purchased produce for our Christmas dinner and the coming week. The produce was plentiful and cheap! For example, bananas were 10 for $1 BZE--that works out to five US cents each.
Mom, Dad, and the boys at the market

Another view of the market, with one of the ubiquitous dogs

One of the many fruit and vegetable stands in the market

The pedestrian street in downtown San Ignacio
San Ignacio also has a pedestrian-only street, lined with little shops, restaurants, and vendors selling food from carts. It's really quite charming.

The next day we took a tour to the Barton Creek Caves and Mountain Pine Ridge. For the past several weeks Belize has experienced record rainfall, and Cayo District in particular suffered extensive flooding. Consequently, the ordinarily bad dirt roads were absolutely horrendous, to the point of near impassibility in some places. In order to get to Barton Creek Caves, we had to drive across a raging creek (that actually seemed more like a full-on river to me). The driver asked all of us to move to the back two rows of the van so the tires would remain in contact with the creek bed, then he gunned it--the water came up past the headlights! Fortunately we made it across without getting washed downstream, then we parked at a bridge that had been washed out during the flooding, and crossed the skeletal remains on foot before walking the rest of the way to the cave entrance. Just arriving at the cave was an adventure!

This is the "wake" created by our van, as seen from the rear windows

We need to get to the other side...

...so it's up and over!
We had a short safety briefing from our guide, Juan, before donning life jackets and splitting up into three canoes. The passenger in the bow of each canoe was provided with a very powerful spotlight, which was helpful, because after we paddled into the cave, it was quite dark. The creek was pretty wide throughout most of the cave, and we were able to proceed three abreast. In many places, the roof of the cave was very high, up to 60-70 feet, and covered with a wide variety of stalactites and many bats. In places the creek narrowed, and the ceiling lowered, until at one point, we had to bend nearly double to pass under a very low hanging portion of the cave before entering another chamber that was much larger.
Safety briefing. Mom looks worried.

Getting used to the boats before entering the cave

Checking out the view

Cool formations!

Another interesting stalactite formation

Bats!

The ceiling is getting lower and lower

Near the turn-around point

More cool formations

Ancient Mayan underworld cave canoe-trip selfie
Liam caught this cool gecko after lunch (we think it is a dwarf bark gecko)
Perched at intervals along the ledges of the cave were numerous pots, and at one point, we could clearly see a human skull. Juan explained that the skull was from the sacrifice of a young girl, and archaeologists suspect she was royalty because her forehead had been flattened and elongated (as was apparently the style among the Mayan elite).

About mid way through the cave, Juan asked us to turn out the lights, and it was astonishingly dark, literally pitch black. He asked us to imagine what it must have been like for the Mayans, in their dugout canoes, using only torches, with wild shadows dancing across the cave walls. It was easy to see why they believed the caves and cenotes were the Underworld--it really does feel like a different world in there.

Eventually we reached a point where the water was too high for us to continue into the cave system, and we had reached the limit of Mayan activity in any case, so we turned around and paddled back out.

We had a delightful lunch at the picnic tables outside the cave mouth, then reversed our exciting walk/shimmy/river crossing to get back on the road. On an especially steep uphill portion, we encountered another vehicle coming the other way, and our driver Ishmael had to stop our forward progress and pull of to the side of the road. As we continued upwards, the engine started struggling, the BOOM! Steam/smoke/etc started pouring out of the hood and we stopped dead in the middle of the road.
Boom! The puddle is the engine coolant.

Waiting in the shade, Amy is IDing a bird we saw

We retreated uphill a bit to a spot of shade and waited while Ishmael and Dad tried to sort out the problem. It turns out that engines don't like being submerged in (relatively) cold water and then worked super hard to get uphill, so the engine overheated and the radiator overflow tank blew its lid and we lost all of our coolant. By pouring all of our drinking water into the radiator after it had cooled, we were able to get up the hill to a Mennonite farm where they had clean water they gave us to top off the radiator.

Then we proceeded to Mountain Pine Ridge. This is a particularly interesting area of Belize, because it is at a relatively higher elevation and is covered with pine trees. At times I felt like I was in Flagstaff, or maybe just outside Spokane, except the undergrowth was significantly greener, and I saw a toucan flying between the pine trees! That was weird, but awesome.

The gang at the mouth of Rio Frio cave. They are the little tiny specks in the center-right of the image.

The boys and Ishmael in Rio Frio Cave

The condition of the road leading to Rio Frio cave. We did not try to drive on this.
Thatched roof hut under the pines. Weird.
Keel-billed toucan in the pine trees
Last stop for the day--Rio on Pools

We stopped at an amazing cave and hiked around it for awhile, then made a final stop at Rio on Pools, a beautiful stretch of river with multiple cascading pools. I think if it had been earlier in the day and the waters hadn't been raging so hard we would have gone swimming, but we were content to just look. Another spot we wanted to visit, 1,000 Foot Falls, was inaccessible because the road had totally washed out.

We made it back to San Ignacio around 7:00, which made for another long day, but the evening was quite pleasant and we drank some beers and ate pizza at the tables in Central Park while we listened to a school choir sing Christmas carols. It was a very memorable day.